• Beyond trends, into aesthetic language.
• Chulaap.
• Fikile Sokhulu.
• Thando Ntuli.

South African Fashion is triggering, in the best ways possible. From the sartorial looks served collectively across the nation, the once favoured glance to Europe has turned inward, revealing a depth, richness and vast swathe of aesthetics. Here at the point of the continent, it feels like all of Africa – its heritage, dreams, and whimsy – have collected, percolated and distilled into a distinct savoir-faire. The fact that it comes laden with a cool factor of note, should not be a surprise.

The WIRE is vibing hard with these three designers who, together, are in the throes of something unique and beyond simple trends. Rather, they are giving birth to their own aesthetic languages. LET THE BODY SPEAK.

Chulaap

“My customers are global travellers. They are fun, confident, and dress in a stylish and artistic way. Head-to-toe Chulaap is how they roll,” says Chu Suwannapha of his bold, print-powered menswear brand. Although the Cape Town-based designer’s looks aren’t strictly for men only. Working with strong silhouettes, unexpected necklines and a heady mix of pattern has made Suwannapha – known as the ‘prince of prints’ – a firm favourite with the finer sex, too.

Born and raised in Thailand, Suwannapha worked as a fashion designer and business owner of his CHULAAP line. Next, he studied at the prestigious fashion school ESMOD in Paris, France. Back in South Africa, Suwannapha worked first as the fashion director at Fair Lady magazine, and currently as the fashion director of You, Huisgenoot and Drum magazines. Most recently Suwannapha collaborated with notable Italian shoe company, Superga. “I came to Cape Town on holiday and completely fell in love with the city,” he remembers. “The ease of lifestyle, the vibrant cultures and rich art scene continue to inspire me every day, while the diversity and the rawness keep me hooked.”

Fikile Sokhulu

Durban-based designer, Fikile Sokhulu, finished as a finalist at the 2018 SA Fashion Week talent search contest. Launched in 2018, Sokhulu’s eponymous brand was among the selected few for the Fashion Bridges project in 2021. A collaboration between South Africa and Italy, the cultural exchange initiative saw Fikile unveil a collection during Milan Fashion Week. The brand has continued to grow its romantic aesthetic (ruffles, frills, pleats, ruching) and feminine tailoring into soft sensibilities. Originally rendered in white, the stark absence of colour served as a counter lever to the light and shadow of the construction. It can still be found in more recent collections.

Munkus

Thando Ntuli ‘s name was on everyone’s lips after winning SAFW’s talent search competition in 2022. Her womenswear brand, Munkus, created in 2019, is a fusion of ’80s and ’90s Soweto style influences with a twist of Afrofuturism. From its playful, whimsical silhouettes to bold and daring prints, the brand is clothing generations of forward-thinking women.

Ntuli’s approach to making garments is centred on technical details that imbue sentimentality. This evolved notion of sustainability ensures the garment’s shelf life can be extended enough to be passed down. Also, by adopting layering cues, Munkus allows customers to accessorise with other pieces to truly picture a look that is individualistic and personal.